Glamping kitchen (Mk.2) {part 1}

The first version of the kitchen was made from low quality plywood that I had on-hand. It was never supposed to be used a second time, but I never found the time to remake it with better quality materials.

We’ve used it for at least seven years, and I think I’ve identified all the shortcomings.

  • Steel pins
  • Shelves aren’t interchangeable
  • Wasted space, shelves are too big for crates
  • Paper towels get rained on.
  • Doesn’t pack flat

Version 1 was held together with 12 steel pins. I was always a bit leery of this system, because I can’t easily make steel pins while camping. The steel pins are being replaced with wooden wedges, which I’m sure I can easily replace mid-trip if needed. Also, the pins weren’t really locked in, so each time the “drawers” get pulled out, the rear pin for that shelf wiggles out a bit. Eventually the pin comes loose and I have to partially disassemble the kitchen to find the pin and then reinstall it.

When building the original, I held the shelves in place on top of the cleats and eye-balled the center of each side to drill a hole for the pin. None of them is actually in the center, so each shelf fits in exactly one position. The new model will eliminate two shelves and have two identical shelves.

Because the pins stand proud of the shelves, the crates have to fit inboard of the pins. This means there is about an inch of extra shelf on three sides of each crate.

The paper towel holder was an afterthought, and I just hung it on the front of one of the milk crates. If anything gets spilled on the countertop, it always runs down the paper towels. I’m going to put the towel holder totally under the countertop to protect it from spills.

Lastly, the shelves sit on 2×2 cleats,and the underside of the countertop has cleats to secure it to the verticals. These cleats take up space and are difficult to pack around. I’m replacing the cleats and pins with mortise and tenon construction, so all my boards will pack flat.

Last year I promised myself I would redo it before this camping season, so I bought some cabinet grade plywood as winter was starting to break.

Given that the biggest problem with the first version was that every piece was unique, I’m trying to make them as identical as possible this time.

I laid out the tenons and mortises before cutting panels out. (Which became a problem later on)

Laying out the four side panels

To ensure that the mortises on top and bottom panels are aligned, I clamped them together and drilled out the corners for each mortise hole.

The top panel stands 1.5” proud of the bottom on all four sides. All my mortises were laid out accurately on the bottom panel and transferred to the top with a drill.
It’s better to use a 3/8” or larger drill bit that is tangent to two sides of a corner so you can maneuver the jigsaw blade better.
Starting to come together—- but I messed up.
Detail of my error. I cut the tenon on the wrong side of the divider.
Replaced my mis-cut panels.
The working side of the kitchen. I still need to add plumbing and apply finish to the lumber.
Broken down for travel.

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Author: rexplex

With a bachelors degree in history, I turn wrenches for a living. I’m most at peace when I hear the wind in the trees or the gurgle of a brook. I’m a believer in the Renaissance Man, as epitomized by DaVinci engineer, artist, soldier, statesman. As Heinlein said, “A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyse a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.”

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